Irving
Penn (June 16, 1917 – October 7, 2009) was an American
photographer known for his fashion photography, portraits, and still
lifes. Penn's career included work at Vogue magazine, and
independent advertising work for clients including Issey Miyake,
and Clinique. His work has been exhibited internationally, and
continues to inform the art of photography.
Biography
Penn
was born on June 16, 1917 in Plainfield, New Jersey, to Harry
Penn and Sonia Greenberg. Penn's younger brother, Arthur
Penn was born in 1922 and would go on to become a film director
and producer.
Penn
attended the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art (now
the University of the Arts) from 1934 to 1938, where he studied
drawing, painting, graphics, and industrial arts under Alexey
Brodovitch. While still a student, Penn worked under Brodovitch
at Harper's Bazaar which published several of Penn's
drawings.
Penn
worked for two years as a freelance designer and making his first
amateur photographs before taking Brodovitch's position as the art
director at Saks Fifth Avenue in 1940. Penn remained at
Saks Fifth Avenue for a year before leaving to spend a year painting
and taking photographs in Mexico and across the US.
When
Penn returned to New York, Alexander Liberman offered him a
position as an associate in the Vogue magazine Art
Department. Penn worked on layout for the magazine before Liberman
asked him to try photography.
Penn's
first photographic cover for Vogue magazine appeared in
October 1943. Penn continued to work at the magazine throughout his
career, photographing covers, portraits, still lifes, fashion, and
photographic essays.
In the
1950s, Penn founded his own studio in New York and began making
advertising photographs. Over the years, Penn's list of clients grew
to include General Foods, De Beers, Issey Miyake,
and Clinique.
Penn
met fashion model Lisa Fonssagrives at a photo shoot in
1947. In 1950, the two married at Chelsea Register Office, and
two years later Lisa gave birth to their son, Tom Penn, who would go
on to become a metal designer.[5] Lisa Fonssagrives died in
1992.
Penn
died aged 92 on October 7, 2009 at his home in Manhattan.
Photography
Best
known for his fashion photography, Penn's
repertoire also includes portraits of creative greats; ethnographic
photographs from around the world; Modernist still lifes of
food, bones, bottles, metal, and found objects; and photographic
travel essays.
Penn
was among the first photographers to pose subjects against a simple
grey or white backdrop[citation needed] and he
effectively[citation needed] used this simplicity. Expanding his
austere studio surroundings, Penn constructed a set of upright angled
backdrops, to form a stark, acute corner. Subjects photographed with
this technique included Martha Graham, Marcel
Duchamp, Pablo Picasso, Georgia O'Keeffe, W. H. Auden,
and Igor Stravinsky.
Penn's
still life compositions are spare and highly organized,[citation
needed] assemblages of food or objects that articulate the
abstract interplay of line and volume. Penn's photographs are
composed with a great attention to detail, which continues into his
craft of developing and making prints of his photographs. Penn
experimented with many printing techniques, including prints made on
aluminum sheets coated with a platinum emulsion rendering the image
with a warmth that untoned silver prints lacked. His black and
white prints are notable for their deep contrast, giving them a
clean, crisp look.
While
steeped in the Modernist tradition, Penn also ventured beyond
creative boundaries. The exhibition of Earthly Bodies consisted
of series of posed nudes whose physical shapes range from thin to
plump; while the photographs were taken in 1949 and 1950, they were
not exhibited until 1980, perhaps in part because of questions about
the public reception of the graphic representations of the female
nude.
irvingpenn.org
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